Nov 16 - 2019
Italy Trip - Day 5
Cinque Terre ~ The 5 beautiful villages :
Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
Prelude: Nov 15 - 2019
Train reached to La Spezia Centrale after 1.5 hours from Pisa.
Our next local train to Rimaggiore was given in the same station in the other line. It was hardly 5 minute and feasibly couple of stations from La Spezzia. Tickets were pre booked so just needed to board on. Normally the double decker local train covers the 5 villages upto Levanto from La Spezia to and from every 20 mins.
Junior got hungry , so he had his milk meanwhile as we reached Riomaggiore shortly. It was still not evening but very cloudy though. Crossing to the right side of the station
using the subways we reached a tunnel to land into the village adjacent to the station.The villages are all linked with sea on both sides.Took few minutes to find the residence we booked, it was not a hotel this time but a private house given as rent. In normal seasonal times these residences are of high rent and also mostly fulfilled. Tourists normally prefer to stay near La Spezia also having lots of hotel/residence options. Like any other hill side elevated road side houses are clubbed on top of each other.Ours was after a 7 feet stair climb by one side As we ringed and called up the owner she responded with the instructions. After a complete day of tiredness due to Pisa rain and travel to here I was little restless to get our bags & juniors heavy stuffed stroller up the less spaced stairs. Anyways managed it someway getting those inside where first we settled the stroller first. To note it was also raining a little bit while we were searching the house outside, so got slightly drenched.
The owner was a lady in her 50's probably who was very nice and gentle to us. We have to climb 3rd floor for our room which was very nice and by far the best one i should say , even it gave us the home feel factor. Room was spacious and very clean.
Once we settled with our luggages and in room, she came and explained us all necessary stuff about the room, heating arrangements and breakfast commentaries.
She even explained us the places we can visit along with some maps to follow.She was staying few more stair steps up as she left us back home.
I was here earlier also so i have the idea mostly. Anyways as PP & junior was getting settled i moved out to check for dinner. Since it was drizzling and being odd time of the year mostly the place was empty with very less tourists out there. Just down by the streets there was a restaurant serving foods with takeways. I got hold of some Spaghetti with fried fishes and a Beer bottle. In between the 15 mins preparation time I strolled to the Marina which was just 5 minutes walk from our place. It was very dark, the sea was very violent due to bad weather , almost no one was there but nevertheless a breathtaking view it was and awesome thrilling experience. Having no other shops open I found a drinking water tap near Marina, so came back home to get 3/4 empty bottles to fill up to store for the night.After 15 mins got the ordered food & came back to room. Food quantity was good for both of us. Since we were hungry we had our dinner , the food was light and tasty. So finally tummy is happy, we reorganized our baggage and was bit worried if next day also it rain as showing in forecast. There is 1 more bad news coming from everywhere that Venice got a record flooding in 50 years at present which is our last destination a day after. Seeing the pictures and videos of the flood we were getting very upset. But let see tomorrow first how it will turn out weather wise. Forecast was rainy full day and might stop from around 2 pm next day. Left to our luck we went to sleep fully tired.
Next morning:
PP almost lost hope after the rain experience in Pisa but seems someone somewhere if not for me but for her and my junior planned it better for most of the days after initial prediction of 9 day full rain when we started our trip.
I am not a firm believer of GOD, so sorry can't give credit to the Almighty, but yes thanks to someone/something which helped us on this front.
We woke early at around 8:30 am , PP was in no mood to see better day and was casual enough to stay back, but I had a gut feeling things will be better. Being a different time of the year our owner didn't have any breakfast arranged which was actually included as per booking confirmation. But we never asked for that as we understood the same.We had some early morning snacks and biscuits previously.After around 10 am weather started to clean up a bit with some rays of hope and sunlight. I asked PP to make it fast a bit as seems things will be fine weather wise. So we got ready quickly & started our day from current place Riomaggiore only.
Riomaggiore : Marina
Marina was the primary spot which i visited last night. In a 10 minute or so weather was full sunny and the Marina looked awesome across the blue wide sea. The colorful buildings looked just painting as we climbed up few scenic spots. All familiar restaurants and shops were mostly closed being off season. We stayed there for an hour or so before we moved for our next destination to the last town - Monterossa Al Mare which is the most happening and beautiful village from the 5 terrains.
While we moved for the station, took the day pass to move around the 5 villages and started waiting for the train we had a round of cappuccino and butter croissants which will fill us for sometime atleast.
Monterosso
Once train arrived it took around 15 minutes to reach Monterossa. We planned for an hour or 2 for here max. Crossed the station towards the ride side (facing Levanto the next station) using the subway. Directly we landed to the wide open sea view and mostly empty road ways though quite some people arrived in the train. Being off season all the hiking paths are closed. Ideally there are awesome hiking pathways connecting all 5 villages which also gives breathtaking view.But it needs enough fitness and with baby and stroller not feasible. You have to carry babies in the carrier bags if you want though.
We slowly strolled around the river side with the open beach downside. Since it was very empty and secured with guard rails we left Ron to move around also. Started taking some snaps when a lady offered us for a family picture. I always find many such people rather tourists offering to take family photo, also at times get request to take others pictures also which i loved to help out always.
The sea side stroll was awesome specially for PP , for me also it was nostalgic to get back here, I still remember the last moments i visited with colleagues. Its still fresh after 9 years. Goosebumps !! Not much but slightly the appearances changed road side.There was a big rock structure near to the beach and close to the road way which is still intact and as is. While we walk passed it i took a recap photo for my "Now & Then" memory. Ron was running around whenever set free. He was enjoying with Mumma. We paused near the rock structure for some time, the wide Mediterranean sea was just so soothing at the backdrop, a place where you will always like to lose yourself.
We went ahead some more path leading towards the Castle which was not open though feasibly being this time of the year. Crossing the Castle peak we can overlook towards Levanto which is an awesome sight from the top.It was almost 1.5 hours and we still have to cover 3 more towns , so we came back to the station as we checked the next train towards Vernazza is within 10 mins. We hurried back but did a mistake in confusion.We stepped in the wrong side of the station , the current train already we missed when we reached the station. Then also we waited for 20 more mins but to catch the wrong side train :-(. Realized it when we reached Levanto instead of Vernazza our next town. So we lost some more time again for the next train but it was fine as we relaxed out a bit while we were in Levanto.
Vernazza
We reached Vernazza, another small but beautiful town which was having a nice Harbor side at the end. The view from the top while in trek is awesome as we normally see in any travel blogs or pictures but our plans didn't include that so we end up in the ground level only. The town was beautiful. While we landed in there after 2 minutes walk we took a halt as we have to feed Ron again. We found couple of souvenir shops where we took some magnets as a memory from the place.Once we refreshed and feeded our junior we moved ahead.
Time being less we didn't have any hard lunch today but managed with cakes,biscuits and snacks.Currently the weather was bit cloudy with low lights.On the way to the Harbor area we found a small wayout in the left side under the rocks supporting the town directly into the sea and gushing waters. It was a like a small cave through to the sea from the town streets.
Next we finally reached the wide Harbor place with few boats stationed. It was also a fishing spot for few people, some were even seen with fishing rods sitting beside the Harbor. At the far point we could see high waves crushing against the concrete boulders. Overall view was nice.
The towns are much more jolly and happening during summer times normally with lot of shops, food shacks and amusements being in place but at present its empty mostly with limited food shacks and tourists. From the harbor the station & trains could be seen high up the mountains also. Place was nice but we have limited time so as per next train time we moved back to the station for next town - Corniglia.
Corniglia
From the 5 towns - though all of them have their own beauty but Monterosso, Vernazza and Riomaggiore are the primary ones to visit for. Corniglia and Manorola are on the second preference if you have enough time or a 2 day plan.
For a 1 day trip normally people skip Corniglia as its not having any near view point and from the station you have to climb around 350 steps to get into the town.
To reach Corniglia, it is necessary to climb the Lardarina, a long brick flight of steps composed of 33 flights with 382 steps or, otherwise follow a vehicular road from the station, leads to the village. Sometimes a small bus runs. So bed it difficult with family & kid with stroller etc.Once we reached Corniglia within 5 mins from Vernazza it was almost sunset time. My plan was to finish our day with Manarola which was famous for a beautiful sunset point but as we started the day a bit late due to weather and some time losses seems we will not able to cover the sunset view. Already we could see the Manorola peak from here only and sunset time just started. Anyways we reached till the bottom of the steps then decided to come back as its not possible for 3 of us to climb up. While PP & Ron started back for the station I tried to get a hint of the stairs. While i stepped up many others were accompanying also when suddenly someone said its not far up casually. Can't resist the thrill to the reach the top. Eventually I covered all the steps (350+) out of curiosity only to get the road upside from where you have to move much further to the sea side for any view. Nevertheless the station view with the wide sea infront and far side Manorala peak was a nice view from the top and through the stair steps. Doing so actually took some additional time out. Called up PP to wait few more minutes as i was climbing down the stairs. Day was mostly to an end.She was taking some sunset snaps which was actually looking great from Corniglia also. I realized the spot in the peak Manorola is seen actually gives an wonderful view so its recommended to reach here during the dusk.
Manorola
There was not much time to continue in Manorola but still we decided to atleast touch it. So we caught the next train to reach Manorola our last destination. As we reached and stepped down in the station in was already dark. We were hungry also after the long day and also needed a restroom to refresh our junior but unfortunately we didn't find any both in Corniglia and Manorola. We moved towards the town entry through a tunnel to check out for any hangout or restaurant nearby. There was a Cafe just after the tunnel in the right. We checked inside to help ourself with couple of butter and sweet croissants and latte.(coffee). There also we tried to inquire if there was any baby care room but got a No in response. After finishing our stuff and just a view to the upside town through which ideally i recon is the way to the Sunset view points through the town uphill streets. Anyways it was almost around 7:30 pm probably so we hurried back to check our next train back to Riomaggiore as Ron was feeling uncomfortable without a change for last hour.
It was only 5 mins from Manorola to reach back but was taking some more time only to realize we boarded a wrong train which directly came to La Spezia without stopping at Riomaggiore :-(. On reaching there first thing we did we refreshed Ron moving to the nearest Restroom. Then waited for few minutes to get back Riomaggiore again back to our room. Last day's dinner was good so we mostly took the same menu again, just changed the type of Spaghetti dish. While we get into our room we took the dinner ordered and packed up from the same Pizzeria beside our residence not to come down again.
We have to make a decision for the next and final destination to Venice due to the flood problems. Also to do all packing ready for next mornings journey. Next day was basically a long journey day. I once also thought of covering Milan instead of Venice incase Venice is not accessible. The confidence factor was I know Milan very well as i stayed in here for an year during 2011. Before starting the day in the morning though i got a positive vibe when i called up our hotel (Antico Panada) in Venice to confirm the flood situation. They confirmed that now water has gone down and its okay to visit Venice without any issue.
We relaxed back in the room, had our dinner and finally decided to move on for Venice with an element of risk and fear of what we are supposed to see and experience there. To add to it our return flight was also from Venice so changing destination was actually going to be difficult and adding our expenses. We called up our owner and cleared our rent dues for the 2 nights confirming next morning's check out time. She was a nice person throughout.
Next morning we started off finally again with all luggages. Found a Souvenir shop on the way to station. Halted a bit to take some more souvenir's. Ya we love those to collect mostly the magnets :-)
Times up but not our excitement. Its still like we had an incomplete trip but that what every trip concludes at the end. Finally saying Adieu we walked back to station to get to La Spezia from where we have a 3 phased break journey to Venice via Parma & Bologna Centrale halts.
Cinque Terre was special. No matter how many time i went there it will be special always. Wish to come back here one more time atleast in our life may be with some good time in hand to explore everything we missed.
Off to Venice. Please checkout my next blog for experience while moving and stay at Venice specially its being unique for the 50 years flood situation due to high tide.
Tips to Note:
Check the weather and month you are planning for Cinque Terre. Rainy days could be discouraging. Summer times are best but expect too much crowd in restaurants and congested walking through the villages
Availing the local train to move around the 5 villages is a good option if you have limited time to cover the places. Just have a note of the train times. But if enough time is there and there is plan to take up the hikes you can very well go by your own time & will be able to see the breathtaking top views from the mountains into the colorful villages ,harbor by the sea
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